Techniques with the AR/M-16/A1-A4
Combat Techniques with the AR/M-16/A1-A4 series after 25 years.
Dirty Tricks learned from a former Dark Sith
I thought I'd convey a few things I've learned over the years and what the .223 Remington/ 5.56 mm NATO can and, will not do. Little things that you'll never know unless you've actually engaged in a furball with one.
The most important thing to know is; approximate range. It's a good thing to understand what you see and what you evaluate to be the approximate range be it 100 meters out to 300 meters. Once you understand that, you'll have a better chance of a hit in the long run. How you do it is take a guess from what you already know and walk it out one day. Do this a few times on different days and you'll get to know how your eyesight naturally sees and perceives distance. What does a 6' person look like at 300 meters? What are some man made objects that you can use to help you assess distance from known distances? A small pickup? A cinderblock? Once you gain experience your shot will be easier to make. Remember the first time you ran a 50 yard dash? How about looking at a football field?
Whenever possible, attempt to think of the bullet that you fired as a ball you're throwing at another team mate. Lead time is important. Timing & Lead distance and understanding how fast your round reaches that range is most important and that will come in time with enough practice.
I've written many articles regarding the use of different weapons at closer range. From very close...too 25 meters. However I've never touched base on this...
1. If you can see them. Then they can see you.
2. If you can shoot at them. Then they can shoot at you.
3. If you can shoot them before they shoot you, you should win.
4. Whomever gets the kill shot wins.
5. Once the first shot is fired. Someone has tipped their hand so make it count!
It's always better to aim a bit low in combat than high. For instance, if I shot at someone standing about 100 meters away in rapid fire...being right handed there is a slight barrel rise and I'll eventually miss my target for I'll be shooting over their heads. So, If I aimed and shot at their hip area, even if I missed my first round and my target begins diving down to get cover, my second or third shot may meet them in the middle area ensuring a hit. Could I aim center of mass and get a solid hit? Of course but there are variables like timing, time to aim, target movement. If you can aim mid wise up the target, then you'll ensure a probability of a hit.
At 200-300 meters out, aim in a prone position whenever possible. It will enhance your hit probability for it's the most stable position. Just don't remain static. After a few rounds your position is identified and you'll be a bullet magnet for the bad guys. If the target is moving, aim approximately (1) person ahead. That's where the passing the ball technique comes in.
At 350-700 meters, your chances for a solid hit are diminished greatly but not impossible but; keep in mind that with a plethora of circumstances, your shot will be affected. Hence why you heard of Indirect Fire before you read this. You can do it but on the other hand, do you really have the spare ammo to get a hit? From statistics I've read that during the Vietnam War we expended 10k rounds to get one hit. Now that's a lot of ammo to hump.
When engaging a Tango, use a base team to set a solid foundation of fire be it with automatic weapons or skilled semi-auto fire. Once suppression is sustained, not just achieved but sustained, you take your fire team to flank them and finishing the fight. Flanking Fire remember? Although the tactics are old; they still work.
Keep in mind that although the AR may have a good amount of firepower, there is no substitute for accurate fire. You could fire off an entire magazine at someone but if they can shoot one round to finish the fight...then they will. I urge you to do it first. Well aimed direct fire will always be good suppressive fire.
The 5.56 mm NATO round was designed to yaw to cause a mortal wound, not to kill them off immediately. In comparison to the AK 47 bullet which is a 7.62 x 39 mm or a M240 MG which fires a 7.62 NATO (7.62 x 51mm), the 5.56 bullet is about half the size if that. It ranges from 55 to 62 grains in comparison to the 100-160 grain bullets. In essence, it's smaller and doesn't have the kinetic punch that others possess. Like I said, it was made to yaw in a target medium and it will cause a tremendous temporary cavity but will have a smaller permanent cavity in opposite relation to the larger rounds I mentioned. I'm not a Doctor so I won't try to explain that. You'll just have to look up the terms yourself.
Shooting through some materials like brick or cinderblocks are quite impossible. Cinderblocks are a maybe. The first level will see damage but the second level behind it is not usually the case. You may break some of it but you won't shoot through it. However it will go through some adobe materials and it will penetrate through most drywall. If you have access to the black tipped, armor penetrating rounds, then it will have a steel core and most materials will be vulnerable.
You actually can ricochet some 5.56mm rounds up to 10 degrees if you shoot it at a very shallow angle into a very dense material such as brick or cement. If you shoot it at a 7 degree level of angle, then the round will ricochet off at a 7 degree level of angle. Simple geometry. Any shots past a 10 degree angle IMHO will just end up as smushed 5.56 rounds and a lot of dust. The round will maybe strike your Tango but the round is all smushed and the ballistics are shot to hell. I can't tell you why one needs to ricochet a bullet but it should be used as a last resort and you'll know when you'll have to do it. Just don't think that you'll be able to bank it like a billiards shot. It doesn't happen that way.
Less is More; from adding attachments, weighing down an 8 lb. M4 to the use of oil or carbide.
The mantra of less is more and slow is fast has been an ever evolving lesson that I experience once in awhile that just justifies the wisdom of the original shooter that said it.
No one denies that they love the M4 with all the bells and whistles like rails, Surefire flashlight mounts, BUIS systems, battery storing pistol grips and stocks yet alone the optical systems available like EO Tech, Trijicon and Aimpoints. It's your business what you strap onto your weapon. From the latest in electronic sights to the modular toilet paper/sanitizing gel dispenser.
Just Remember, you have to hump it and it is your personal system. No one else will be able to to shoot it the way you can and sure as hell that no one's gonna hump the thing for you in case you get tired or a boo-boo. Another team rule is; if you die, we split up your gear.
No matter what, it is that any firearm is merely a gunpowder using machine that delivers a piece of lead from point A to point B efficiently and consistently. Don't over complicate it. KISS...Keep It Simple Stupid.
Just remember the mantra that I've always said...if it works, then it isn't stupid.
Fight to win. Let that winner be you.
Dirty Tricks learned from a former Dark Sith
I thought I'd convey a few things I've learned over the years and what the .223 Remington/ 5.56 mm NATO can and, will not do. Little things that you'll never know unless you've actually engaged in a furball with one.
The most important thing to know is; approximate range. It's a good thing to understand what you see and what you evaluate to be the approximate range be it 100 meters out to 300 meters. Once you understand that, you'll have a better chance of a hit in the long run. How you do it is take a guess from what you already know and walk it out one day. Do this a few times on different days and you'll get to know how your eyesight naturally sees and perceives distance. What does a 6' person look like at 300 meters? What are some man made objects that you can use to help you assess distance from known distances? A small pickup? A cinderblock? Once you gain experience your shot will be easier to make. Remember the first time you ran a 50 yard dash? How about looking at a football field?
Whenever possible, attempt to think of the bullet that you fired as a ball you're throwing at another team mate. Lead time is important. Timing & Lead distance and understanding how fast your round reaches that range is most important and that will come in time with enough practice.
I've written many articles regarding the use of different weapons at closer range. From very close...too 25 meters. However I've never touched base on this...
1. If you can see them. Then they can see you.
2. If you can shoot at them. Then they can shoot at you.
3. If you can shoot them before they shoot you, you should win.
4. Whomever gets the kill shot wins.
5. Once the first shot is fired. Someone has tipped their hand so make it count!
It's always better to aim a bit low in combat than high. For instance, if I shot at someone standing about 100 meters away in rapid fire...being right handed there is a slight barrel rise and I'll eventually miss my target for I'll be shooting over their heads. So, If I aimed and shot at their hip area, even if I missed my first round and my target begins diving down to get cover, my second or third shot may meet them in the middle area ensuring a hit. Could I aim center of mass and get a solid hit? Of course but there are variables like timing, time to aim, target movement. If you can aim mid wise up the target, then you'll ensure a probability of a hit.
At 200-300 meters out, aim in a prone position whenever possible. It will enhance your hit probability for it's the most stable position. Just don't remain static. After a few rounds your position is identified and you'll be a bullet magnet for the bad guys. If the target is moving, aim approximately (1) person ahead. That's where the passing the ball technique comes in.
At 350-700 meters, your chances for a solid hit are diminished greatly but not impossible but; keep in mind that with a plethora of circumstances, your shot will be affected. Hence why you heard of Indirect Fire before you read this. You can do it but on the other hand, do you really have the spare ammo to get a hit? From statistics I've read that during the Vietnam War we expended 10k rounds to get one hit. Now that's a lot of ammo to hump.
When engaging a Tango, use a base team to set a solid foundation of fire be it with automatic weapons or skilled semi-auto fire. Once suppression is sustained, not just achieved but sustained, you take your fire team to flank them and finishing the fight. Flanking Fire remember? Although the tactics are old; they still work.
Keep in mind that although the AR may have a good amount of firepower, there is no substitute for accurate fire. You could fire off an entire magazine at someone but if they can shoot one round to finish the fight...then they will. I urge you to do it first. Well aimed direct fire will always be good suppressive fire.
The 5.56 mm NATO round was designed to yaw to cause a mortal wound, not to kill them off immediately. In comparison to the AK 47 bullet which is a 7.62 x 39 mm or a M240 MG which fires a 7.62 NATO (7.62 x 51mm), the 5.56 bullet is about half the size if that. It ranges from 55 to 62 grains in comparison to the 100-160 grain bullets. In essence, it's smaller and doesn't have the kinetic punch that others possess. Like I said, it was made to yaw in a target medium and it will cause a tremendous temporary cavity but will have a smaller permanent cavity in opposite relation to the larger rounds I mentioned. I'm not a Doctor so I won't try to explain that. You'll just have to look up the terms yourself.
Shooting through some materials like brick or cinderblocks are quite impossible. Cinderblocks are a maybe. The first level will see damage but the second level behind it is not usually the case. You may break some of it but you won't shoot through it. However it will go through some adobe materials and it will penetrate through most drywall. If you have access to the black tipped, armor penetrating rounds, then it will have a steel core and most materials will be vulnerable.
You actually can ricochet some 5.56mm rounds up to 10 degrees if you shoot it at a very shallow angle into a very dense material such as brick or cement. If you shoot it at a 7 degree level of angle, then the round will ricochet off at a 7 degree level of angle. Simple geometry. Any shots past a 10 degree angle IMHO will just end up as smushed 5.56 rounds and a lot of dust. The round will maybe strike your Tango but the round is all smushed and the ballistics are shot to hell. I can't tell you why one needs to ricochet a bullet but it should be used as a last resort and you'll know when you'll have to do it. Just don't think that you'll be able to bank it like a billiards shot. It doesn't happen that way.
Less is More; from adding attachments, weighing down an 8 lb. M4 to the use of oil or carbide.
The mantra of less is more and slow is fast has been an ever evolving lesson that I experience once in awhile that just justifies the wisdom of the original shooter that said it.
No one denies that they love the M4 with all the bells and whistles like rails, Surefire flashlight mounts, BUIS systems, battery storing pistol grips and stocks yet alone the optical systems available like EO Tech, Trijicon and Aimpoints. It's your business what you strap onto your weapon. From the latest in electronic sights to the modular toilet paper/sanitizing gel dispenser.
Just Remember, you have to hump it and it is your personal system. No one else will be able to to shoot it the way you can and sure as hell that no one's gonna hump the thing for you in case you get tired or a boo-boo. Another team rule is; if you die, we split up your gear.
No matter what, it is that any firearm is merely a gunpowder using machine that delivers a piece of lead from point A to point B efficiently and consistently. Don't over complicate it. KISS...Keep It Simple Stupid.
Just remember the mantra that I've always said...if it works, then it isn't stupid.
Fight to win. Let that winner be you.
11 年 前