How to Conceal a Firearm? Hints and Tips

Here's a few things to ponder and I'll explain why.

There are a three primary factors in selecting a weapon for concealed carry purposes with the operative word of "concealed".

1. How concealable is it?
2. Where have you trained to use it from?
3. Operating environment.

A few smaller concerns would be;

1. Availability of concealment wear.
2. Maintenance issues.
3. Cost of maintenance and training.

How Concealable Is It?

Depending on the other two primary factors; training and environment, some weapons are not that practical for concealed carry wear. For instance; I live in sunny, hot and humid Florida and since we wear a jacket for only two months out of the year here, underarm rigs are a bit outrageous. We wear shorts and a T shirt most of the times when we're out and about. So wearing an ankle holster is also out. So strapping on that .50 AE Desert Eagle isn't practical but neither is a full size 1911 or IMHO that large frame Glock. Bulky, cheaper firearms could weigh up to nearly five pounds and very expensive if you break it...as an an everyday concealed carry gun, all weapons are more prone to wear and tear. Some can do it, some can't do it for long. Make the right decision the first time around. A bulky firearm would take make the word concealed moot but also think about actual usefulness. If I got a small two shot derringer that fired a .22 LR then I've narrowed my effective firing limit to only two shots, plus unless you're right beside your target, that kind of firearm is virtually everywhere. There is a fine balance...if you wish to deploy that 10 shot .22 LR revolver, it's your right but how good are you? Could you deliver it accurately everytime into the target medium and will it do enough damage to incapacitate them? I would argue probably not. Although Hinkley put down quite a few people that day in '81...I would also say that he was lucky. Think about the size of the weapon versus the stopping power. The smaller the weapon, as a general rule, the more uncontrollable it gets. What can you control that has enough stopping power and can be concealed on you without advertising it whenever you bend over? Think about it.

Training.[/u]

Some folks do train with an ankle holster but only if you're wearing pants. I was trained with a mindset of reaching for my strong side hip so I employ a smaller weapon on my hip in a Kydex IWB holster rather than leather since it would get wet with perspiration most of the times. I have four modes of carry and three of them are on my hip. The fourth is when I'm in full jacktard gear with either a drop leg or a MOLLE chest rig. You haven't lived until you've taken a spill on your gun side with one of those hard shell holsters on your hip. Of course most of you will never have to scale a SWAT ladder in a furball or training. The art of balance is challenged in full jacktard gear. The biggest thing is where have you trained from? If you've read my article regarding Muscle Memory, you will revert to that in a stress shooting and there are no second chances. There have been numerous folks taking the dirt nap because they went to the wrong place and their opponents have a new souvenir.



If I were in a colder environment I could also wear pants and a jacket and that could give me more concealment options but I don't most of the time. Whereas either hotter or colder, I can still employ my IWB holster successfully all the time in comparison to the ankle holster rig or under the arm systems. Plus, what will you be doing? Just going to get groceries or out running? What's The One Gun that could do it all for you? Sure I can wear my Kimber CDP when I'm on a bodyguard detail in a suit and tie but could I wear it in a pair of shorts and a t-shirt? How about my PM9? Right. I can do both. With the understanding that most folks don't have the opportunity to get many different weapons for different situations like I do, I advocate that you get one pistol that is the distinguished Swiss Army Knife firearm that does everything. Once you get it, learn it. Once you learn it, master it. Once you master it, keep it to yourself and never tip your hand. Hence the word concealed. Both your tool and your skill level should be concealed. I love it when I'm underestimated and you will as well.



Back ten years ago the Croatian 2000 pistol was bought out by Springfield and renamed the XD. Many folks bought it but there were no accessories available for it. It took awhile but Springfield caught on and started giving away Fobus-like holsters with the shooters pack when they sold it. For instance; how many holster systems do you see for the FN 5.7 pistol. There are thousands of them out there in the civilian market but how many quality holsters? The answer to that would be a prime example. Check out whats available for them before you get your firearm. Kind of like researching the cost of maintenance on that fancy car before you get it because once you get it, you may be stuck with it.

But here's a weird anomaly; for some strange reason, folks still are cheapskates when it comes to protecting a tool that they depend on with their lives by purchasing the cheapest piece of shit holster system for it. You've seen it. They'll buy a $1600 Kimber and put it in that gun holster for $20. That's like putting your Ferrari in a cardboard box. Just the thought of that pisses me off. Would a Samurai keep his sword wrapped in tin foil? Kinda like depending on that Cracker Jack compass you found in the box. It wouldn't make sense.

Before you select a concealed weapon, ensure you have availability to the right holster and rig that you wish to employ comfortably. You will pay for comfort because you will wear it up to 15 hours in the day sometimes. Don't learn the bleeding lessons that I did. By that, I mean that a cheap holster will make you bleed. It was a painful lesson literally and it took weeks to heal while I employed the right holster on top of it.


Concealment weapons are like any weapon out there. Some require more maintenance than others. I've worked the beat in beachside departments most my career. Heat, humidity and salt air does take it's toll on your weapon at times. When I was issued a Sig Sauer 226, it's high carbon steel in it's product made it more prone to rust. My H&K USP .45 only had it's rust appear around the hammer. My Glock was virtually maintenance free. When I wear my Kimber CDP Pro I give it a solid wipe down religiously whereas my Kahr PM9 is almost as resilient as my Glock 26 just 33% smaller. Some of my guys got the Kel Tec P11 or P3AT and they can tell you that they need to wipe it down after every shift due to rust issues. Yeah, everyone praised it in the beginning but ask around now after a decade. The Ruger LCP is based on the same design but I haven't heard how they are when it comes to maintenance issues.



I've written before that I used to go through at least 1k rounds a month shooting pistol and about the same with the rifle when I was home between my Dark Sith gigs overseas. Thankfully it was tax deductible but even then shooting about 500 9mm, 500 .45 & 1k 5.56mm was about $500 then. Now that cost would be about $1500 a month. That's more than my mortgage.

Weapons like the LCP and the P3AT use the popular .380 ACP round. It's effective range is about 15 feet and it's hard to find. It's also very expensive to shoot. I don't blame you. I thought about getting a Diamondback earlier but researched them a bit and found out some disturbing news about it.

Sometimes I get lazy and won't clean my weapons after I shoot at the range because I know I'm going back the next few days. I can do that without hiccups regarding some good work horses like my bolt actions, Glocks, H&K's and AR's to a point but when I deploy my Kimber, Beretta or my .22 plinkers I can't say that. They're a bit more finicky so I maintain them whenever I finish.

Those were just some items I thought you should consider before purchasing a weapon.

Plus, I'd like to add that IMHO when wearing concealed, think about statistical information as well. A concealed piece is supposed to do exactly that and be versatile to the wearer's lifestyle. You could probably conceal a 40mm breech load and engage but what's the outcome? The same. Most CCW weapons are designed to engage up to 25 feet fairly accurately. A nice stainless steel upper is a nice index tool for low light as well and it resists corrosion better.

I love my Glock 26. I can pick whatever eyeball I want up to 30 feet easily but for my everyday wear; I choose my Kahr PM9 with Trijicon night sights and a stainless steel upper with a small Hogue slip on the grip.

Plus if you decide to go mid size; then I'd ditch the 1911's, H&K Compacts or P7's, they're Compacts aren't and the P7 is an antique and heavy piece. I dare you to find an affordable H&K armorer and parts for it. Get a nice reliable Corolla in the Glock 23 it's a mid size 40 if you really need it but you can always drop in a G19 barrel and get the mags. They're interchangeable. Therefore the G22 and G17 mags will also fit it. That's the Glock Advantage. Don't get a .40 just because all the cops use it. Only 15% of us cops are actually experts in firearms. The rest merely just wears it because that's what the department issued and barely qualifies with it once a year. It was designed because most LEO's couldn't negotiate a .45's recoil but had better knockdown than a 9mm but if you're a decent shot up to 15 feet away...a 9mm is perfect with the right round. Shot placement is the key. It's a concealed carry weapon. Just enough to do the job...no more, no less. I would argue that a .380 or .32 ACP's just don't do it ballistically but if you can get a good noggin shot in a furball in a pinch, that would do it for you but I can't do it and I've been shooting since the early '80's. How about you?